Honeywell Home RLV3120A1005 Digital Non-Programmable Thermostat for Electric Heat Only

This thermostat is not for wall heaters!!!! These are highly accurate sensitive thermostats that actually "throttle" the electrical output to the heater so it isn't full on or off to help keep the room at a very constant temperature! They work amazingly well!!!!!! I think there are 5 heating levels. Best unit I have ever used! They are meant to control one heater only. If you have the need to control more then one heater connected to a single thermostat, there is another made by Honeywell for that purpose and it works the same way as well, plus it is lighted. They really need to describe these units better! Many are returned because people buy them for wall heaters, and they will not work for that due to the fan motor.

It was compatible with the wiring in my apartment. Looks good on the wall. It was incredibly easy to install and program. A great value for my money.

T-Stat performs well, and easy to install. 2-Comments: 1) Display is not back-lit so forget adjustment at night w/o lighting up the room. I know, description doesn't say it is, but adding seems like a no-brainer. 2) Device is electrically pretty sensitive to voltage fluctuation. I've had several fail, presumable due to power outages, brown-outs, etc.

I did not fully appreciate what this thing would do for me. My circumstances were that my old Cadet baseboard heater made metal popping noises when the heater went on or off, because I had the original on/off controller from about 38 years ago. (There was also a problem unique to my house, of the gypsum board emitting cracking noises with thermal changes... possibly due to a second layer of board being put on the ceilings to cover a '70s-style popcorn ceiling.) Perhaps the later Cadet heaters don't make the metal popping noises, as I see that they have a special flexible mechanical mounting to prevent that. Anyway, the point is that THIS IS A PROPORTIONAL CONTROL thermostat. That means that it's not on/off. It could, say, operate at 40% power and then if the temperature outside drops it might kick up to 42% power. That it virtually never causes the heater to operate at maximum power means that electrical cords in outlets above the heater--- they are now against code--- never get hot. In my case, the heater is now never hot enough to damage anything, let alone ignite it. And so that's also why I no longer hear ANY thermally-induced noises due to the heater. Note that this is a 2-wire device which usually means that it's suitable for 120 V operation, not 240. However, it is rated for 240 too and you can use it for that. However, current codes where you are at may require that you use a 2-pole, 4-wire device such as Honeywell TL7235A1003 Line Volt Pro Non-Programmable Digital Thermostat with Electronic Temperature Control, 240-Volt . It's possible to become confused. If you are replacing an old thermostat and it has 4 wires coming out of the back, that is the most proper setup for 240 V, 2-phase. So if you defeat that by putting in this 2-wire device you have to join together two wires from one side of the 4-wire device that you are replacing and only connect the other two to this device. Do not be confused by the 4-wire diagram in the instruction sheet. It is not inapplicable to this device with 120V. It does not particularly refer to a 240-volt setup and if you have 120 V it instead depicts the situation when the electrician ran the wires from the breaker box to the thermostat box on the wall before routing them to the heater, instead of the other way. With that arrangement you will find a jumble of wires in the box on the wall. Just pull out the two that are attached to the existing controller and replace the old controller with the new. It doesn't matter which wire from your new thermostat goes to which wire in the box on the wall, as long as you attach them to the two that were previously attached to the old thermostat. It's so delightful to walk into the room to find the temperature pegged at exactly the set point. Better sleeping.

I will have to find a way (maybe warranty) to return the three that I purchased over the past year. None of them worked. A couple of them worked for a short time. They seem to produce heat within the box and that causes them to shut off my heaters because it’s reading the room temperature as higher when it’s actually the unit getting warm. Mine was professionally installed by a licensed electrician, who also looked at the directions, and knew my baseboard heater wattage/voltage. So I doubt that was the problem. I felt that these could be downright dangerous. I switched to the non-digital dial type thermostat of the same brand and had no trouble at all so it’s almost as if the digital tape has a flawed design. My Electrician didn’t seem to like the digital ones either for some reason. It’s too bad because I just like to see a red out of the room temperatures whereas the dial ones do not have a temperature reading on them. The options are very disappointing for controlling electric baseboard heaters. I also thought that the directions were less than adequate. There was only a schematic drawing of how to wire it, and absolutely no written instructions or tips on the actual wiring itself.

This unit generally works well. It seems to use a PID control loop, rather than a hysteretic comparator, for controlling temperature; which means it is always modulating the current though the heater and there is no audible on/off relay click. It's 2-wire setup makes it easy to install. My main problem is that the display is not back-lit and the LCD contrast is low. In my mounting location and under normal room lighting, I can't read the display without a flashlight. I don't happen to set this thermostat very often, but this still seems like an oversight.

The Honewell RLV3120A1005/H is an extremely simple thermostat for two wire baseboard heaters. You set the temperature, and it holds it there until you decide to come back and change it again. I’m replacing an old Swan manual thermostat from the 60’s. It was a simple On/Off thermostat which worked off an expanding piece of metal. Accuracy was not its strong point as my room went from feeling like Antarctica to Guam in less than a half hour if I tried to set it to a measly 70 degrees. The heater was either on full blast or turned off. This made my room feel very stuffy and overly warm. There’s probably a reason for that but I’m no heating expert. I would have liked to get a programmable model but I didn’t want to spend too much (I’m renting the house from the college after all) so I settled on the Honeywell. Looked to do all I needed it to anyway. The thermostat feels pretty substantial. Upon opening it up you’ll find a large heat sync and some beefy circuitry to handle the baseboard heater. It’s rated for 1000 watts at 120 volts and 2000 watts at 240 volts. That’s a roughly 7 to 9-foot heater. The exterior plastic feels solid too. The buttons are very clicky but don’t have a very satisfying travel. Installing was a piece of cake. It has black two wires coming out the back, roughly 4-5 inches long which you connect to the baseboard heater wires in your wall. Color and order don’t matter. The box includes wire nuts for securing your connection and two screws for attaching the device to the wall. After killing the breaker (always cut the power to your heater before installing these things) I wrapped the wires together, used the nuts to secure the connection, carefully replaced them into the wall box, and screwed the thermostat in. The screws that come with the thermostat are very long and didn’t fit my wall box so I used the ones that secured the previous thermostat. Once it was secured to my wall, I slipped the top plate over the thermostat and switched the power back on. Worked like a charm. Operation is stupid simple. The display always shows the ambient temperature. Clicking the up or down keys once shows the temperature setting. Clicking them again changes the setting to the desired temperature. Clicking both keys at once brings up a setting to change from Celsius to Fahrenheit. When the heater is on the thermostat will display 1-5 little flame icons. The thermostat will throttle the heater to keep energy use to a minimum and make sure your room doesn’t get turned into an oven for the sake of a single degree. The flame icons indicate how intense the heater is running with five being blazing hot and one being warm to the touch. This throttling works great and the temperature is kept within around +/- 1 degree most of the time. When on full intensity, the thermostat can get a little warm to the touch (guess that’s why it has a heat sync), but not enough to worry about. Pros and Cons! Pros: • Super easy to use • Setup is super easy, just two wires! • Display is easy to read and clear. No noticeable fade from different angles. • Runs heater at optimal intensity for smooth heating and lower power bills • Stays accurate to setting • Does not click when turning on or off Cons: • Buttons are plastic and don’t feel all that great to press (nitpicking, they are fine) • Buttons on my unit feel slanted to the left. They are tilted away from you with a noticeable angle that you can feel when you press them. Weird design choice in my opinion so maybe it’s a defect? (Also nitpicking, they are fine) • There is pretty much no other functionality other than adjusting the set temperature (which is fine because that’s what it is) • The screws were very long and didn’t fit in my wall box so I had to use the screws from my old thermostat. Not a huge deal either but a little annoying. My heater is a simple 7 foot two wire electric baseboard heater with no forced air. Overall, this is a fantastic unit. If you are looking for a simple thermostat to run your baseboard heater then pick up the Honeywell RLV3120A1005/H

So far so good, our old school resistor knob thermostats kept going bad (wouldn’t shut off our baseboard heaters), which would seem very dangerous as they got really hot. This is my first time trying a digital one and so far it really turns on/off (shown on screen as well), to keep it at your desired temperature. Note the default was set in Celsius units! Press and hold both up/down buttons together for 3 sec, then press either up/down, then hold both buttons again for 1 sec to save unit of choice.

No tiene muy buen control, no mantiene bien la temperatura. Si lo dejas en cierta zona, prende y apaga constantemente. O lo dejas todo el tiempo encendido o todo el tiempo apagado. Pero le cuesta demasiado mantener una temperatura.

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Bought this to replace a broken thermostat. So far, it seems to be working perfectly. Easy to install and no fuss trying to figure out how to use it.

Purchased six of these units to replace old two-wire baseboard thermostats. They are very accurate, within 0.5°C of my digital thermometer. Unlike the older thermostats they replaced, they aim to keep a constant temperature, instead of letting the temperature drop too much then blast on. I installed them with Wago 221-412 connectors to speed up the installation. For my application, the only downside is the lack of LCD backlighting (for night time). Very satisfied with my purchase.

This thermostat is easy to install and it does the job. As described, it is not programmable and has no backlight, but it works fine. Keep in mind this is rated 2000W at 240V which means it might not be compatible with a large baseboard. Be sure to check your baseboard's watts rating before purchasing this. If you have a small room with an analog thermostat, this product gives you a good opportunity to replace it for cheap, especially if you catch it on sale, which I did.