PFERD CS-X Chainsaw Chain Sharpener, 5/32” File for 3/8” Low Profile Chains, 2-in-1 Chainsaw Sharpener and Depth Gauge Tool, Easy Handheld Chain Sharpening (Pack of 1) - Part 17300

Bottom line up front: Try this sharpener. It is totally worth it if you can get the hang of using it (which is easy)! I'll preface this review by admitting that I don't have a ton of experience with chainsaws. (But this sharpener works great for a novice) When I started cutting my own firewood, I tried using a handheld chain sharpener, that I got cheap with the saw, with zero luck. I don't know if I just didn't have the patience to do it right, but it just didn't get the chain the sharpness I wanted. I bought a kit that went in the dremel, once again, not a solution. I did a little better with that, but the "angles got off" according to the guy that I brought the chains to to get sharpened. The only good solution was to carry multiple chains, and swap them if they started getting dull, then bring all the dull ones in to the local dealer to get them sharpened. Then I saw some videos, reviews, etc on the Stihl version of this (which costs a lot more) and thought I would give the Pferd a try, as from what I can tell, they are the same. It look a little bit to get used to it, but once I got the hang of it, it works fast and gives you a razor sharp chain. Operating it is simple, I like to set the saw on a table or tailgate, stand to one side, figure out which end of the sharpener to hold, and then start sharpening. The angle on the tool helps me keep the correct angle on the sharpener. Once the entire chain is done from the one side, I turn the saw around, and go end for end with the tool, and repeat with the other teeth. Usually 3 passes per tooth on a dull chain, and it's razor sharp again. There's no need to take the chain off, or drive to the dealer to get it sharpened. I always sharpen after a day of cutting, and usually that's sufficient, but it's easy to sharpen in the woods also. I really didn't think I'd ever get away from getting the chains professionally sharpened, but this inexpensive tool has already saved me over $100 in sharpening costs. Not to mention prolonging the life of the chain, as I've heard some other people complain about the amount of material the dealership takes off when they sharpen. I don't have to be constantly worried that I might dull my chain and have to bring it to the dealer. Possibly the best indication that I love this tool is that I bought one for my dad. He's a dremel sharpening devotee, but I'm working on getting him to incorporate this, because I really believe that this is the best way to maintain your chains. It also works really quickly, maybe 10 minutes to sharpen a 20 inch chain.

BUY IT. Period. EASILY the best guide/sharpener I've used. I was COMPLETELY skeptical that this would be anything more than just "another" file/guide jig. The designer ABSOLUTELY NAILED it with this thing. It'll probably make you throw any other guide you have in the trash. Absolutely BLOWS the Husqvarna roller guide DIRECTLY in the trash, along with the Oregon guide that clips onto your round file. Makes the Granberg jig that works FLAWLESSLY seem archaic and overly complicated, and sharpening a saw chain is NOT complicated. I swear 99% of these devices make things WAY more complicated than they need to be. You'll also be treated to the quality of Pferd files, which if you haven't used in the past you'll be certainly be BEYOND pleased by the sharpness and longevity of them. Bottom line, this guide TRULY provides all the simplicity, convenience and consistency anyone could ever want in a file guide. Cutters sharpened and the rakers filed down appropriately relative to the cutters. No gimmics, No setup time AT ALL. No nothing. "I file my chains by hand" is something you'll commonly hear from the sawyer vets. Cool, that's something that's certainly doable, especially if you're in the trade, but if you give this guide to the BEST hand filer and they say it's ANYTHING but an improvement on hand filing, they're lying. This IS hand filing, with a guide. Not one that physically controls ANYTHING but rather keeps your file strokes in check in the MOST simple of ways. This guide IMO is as perfect a guide as can be made for a chainsaw, blowing away the competition in the process. It's not $45 for no reason.

Wow is what I will start with, this thing works way better than I could have expected. I hand sharpen my chains and because the way my bench is setup I always tend to favor one side, which after a while leads to the chain pulling to one side when cutting. I decided to give this tool a try and also bought a new chain because I figured my old one was not worth saving. When this arrived I figured I would at least try it on my old chain, not expecting much. Well it totally corrected my chain after just one use. I was blown away by how well it cut, it was like a new chain. I’m totally a believer now and the only problem I have is that I didn’t buy one sooner!

I am very happy with this sharpener. Easy to operate and it works good. Well made.

I purchased this 17302Pferd Chain Sharp CS-X chain saw filing guide product after much review! I currently have about 3 types of chain saw sharpeners, and I didn't want to buy another one that was no better than the ones I already have. After watching product videos and reading Amazon reviews, I decided to purchase this product! I am very happy with the purchase after its initial use. The CS-X comes in a thin, clear plastic case/bag (which probably won't last long) with instructions, but, other than a brief introduction in English (there are 7 different language intros in all) to the CS-X, all the 'how-to-use' instructions are in pictures only. I would recommend watching instructional videos to help with the use of this product for the first time, rather than using just the instructions provided. After that, it is pretty simple, quick, and easy to use! The handle design on the sharpener gives you the correct placement angle (30 degrees for my product) in which to set the sharpener on the chain and then PUSH (only PUSH, not pull) the sharpener to sharpen the chain cutting teeth. The handle, which makes it easier to grip while filing, also has an arrow to show you which way to push the files to cut. The cutter has 3 files incorporated into it, which sharpens both the cutting teeth and files the height of the depth gauge at the same time. Of course, you will have to sharpen all the teeth from one side of the bar first, then work from the opposite side of the bar to finish sharpening the remaining teeth and filing the depth gauges. About 5-6 pushes was all that was needed to sharpen each cutting tooth and file the depth gauge to the correct height on my chain. Instructions recommend putting the chain bar in a vice, but once I tightened the chain on the bar appropriately, I didn't find the absolute need for a vice. Just make certain you are using the correct angle for each tooth and NOT pushing AND pulling (push only) to sharpen the teeth. After sharpening the teeth and depth gauges, I was noticing long strands of wood shavings being cut by my chain saw.....not little chips of shavings, which means the chain isn't very sharp! There are 3 files in this tool.....two of them are round files (7/32") that should be easy to replace, but the third file is a two-sided, flat, narrow, (used to file the depth gauges and is about 3/8" wide by 1/8" thick) file and may not be as easy to find and replace. There is nothing in the instructions about about where to order a replacement for any of the files, so that would be my only concern (replacing the flat file) about this product. Hopefully, it will be a while before I have to worry about replacing any of them. The results with sharpening the chain with the CS-X were very good, in my opinion, and I am pleased that I have a better chain sharpener than any of the ones I currently have or use!

I bought this for a relative who was looking for a more convenient way to sharpen chainsaw chains on his small chainsaw. I recommended this because it is easy to learn to use properly, and quick and easy to sharpen and get good results. While I do highly recommend it for someone looking for an easy way to sharpen a chainsaw and also set the height of the depth gauges (a.k.a. "rakers), I gave it 4 out of five stars because I find the Husqvarna roller gauges seem to do a SLIGHTLY better job. They take a bit more learning to use well, and are a bit more time consuming, since adjusting the depth gauges is a separate step. However, since they use a progressive style tool to set the depth gauges, the performance of the chain is slightly better, and it is far less sensitive to needing every tooth the same length. The difference in cutting performance is minor, and most chainsaw users will probably not notice. Many of those who do notice still prefer the Pferd CSX due to the convenience and time-saving aspects of sharpening with one. You may run into old hands who sneer at using a guide for sharpening a chainsaw, preferring to free-hand file with just a bare round file. I urge users to ignore them. The Pferd Chainsharp CSX does a very good job when used correctly, as do several other styles of sharpeners. I've met many dozens of experienced chainsaw users who THINK they do a good job of sharping a chainsaw with just a bare round file. I've met exactly 3 people who actually CAN do a better job than someone with a bit of practice using a guide. Just let them make their comments, and continue sharpening your saw. With just a bit of practice, you'll be getting great results.

if you cut a lot of wood and need to sharpen the chain frequently this one's is a quality tool made in GERMANY and will hold up unlike the cheaper ones made in China and look color wise like a Stihl chain sharpener, just get the blue one made in Germany you won't regret it

Pferd makes the Stihl sharpeners, in orange plastic. It also makes them in blue plasic, with the Pferd brand on them. If you insist on orange plastic, go ahead and pay twice as much. These gizmos do a fantastic job of sharpening your chain's cutters. All of my chains now cut as fast and clean as they did when new, it doesn't cost me a thing, and sharpening with this gizmo doesn't take away near as much metal as having it done at the saw-shop. The first two or three chains you sharpen, you'll want to do it carefully. 1 - fasten the saw's bar in a vise (preferably, using plastic or rubber jaw-covers). I put a block under the engine to hold the bar close to level. 2 - engage the chain brake, and use a Sharpie to clearly color a link (cutter) so you'll know when you're done with one side - I start at the end and work back toward the engine. 3 - place the guide so that the file is in the gullet of the marked link - make sure the arrow points in the right direction...if it doesn't, you're using the wrong file - flip the guide. 4 - check the position of the guide, making sure it's level, and that the sharpener's guidelines are aligned with the bar, before taking your first stroke on each cutter - then take two more (or three, if the chain is badly dulled) - lift the file slightly on return strokes so that it doesn't engage. Check your angle on every stroke. 5 - move to the next-NEXT cutter (the next one pointing in the same direction) and repeat step 4 - use the same number of strokes on each link. Keep repeating until you reach the last link that you can comfortably sharpen - depending on the length of your bar and the chain pitch, you'll likely be able to sharpen 5, 6, or 7 links. 6 - release the chain brake, and holding the last link you sharpened, manually advance the chain until that link is slightly over the nose of the bar, then lock the chain-brake again. 7 - repeat steps 4-6 until you see the color-coded link - you're done with THAT side. 8 - flip the sharpener so that the other file is down, and turn it until its guidelines are once again aligned with the bar, but in the opposite direction - you will now be repeating the process used to sharpen the other links, but this time you'll be PULLING the sharpener's file through each tooth. [ALTERNATIVELY, you can remove the saw bar from the vise, turn the saw 180 degrees, and refasten it in the vice, so that you'd still be pushing the file, although in a different direction.] 9 - starting with the first cutter you DIDN'T sharpen (next to the color-coded link) repeat steps 4-7 to sharpen the rest of the cutters. The first 72-link chain I sharpened took me about 30 minutes. The second took maybe 15 minutes. Now I can sharpen 3 chains in half an hour, with time for a quick break between chains.

Buen afilador solo asegúrate de pedir el de la medida de tu cadena de motosierra

Reduces error

Acquisto effettuato circa 3 anni fà e a distanza di tutto questo tempo posso dire che l'oggetto l'ho trovato molto utile per affilare la catena della motosega senza impiegare molto tempo ma soprattutto con un risultato finale eccellente. H Dopo questo tempo affila sempre molto bene, io a regola la catena la affilo dopo circa 4 pieni di benzina oppure se accidentalmente urto contro terra o sassi. La possibilità di affilare poco e spesso con la massima efficienza e soprattutto consumando la catena fino al minimo mantenendo un rapporto tagliente/limitatore sempre perfetto. Certo occorre prenderci la mano e cercare di affilare ogni dente uniformemente agli altri, consiglio di partire da quello più consumato, segnarlo con un pennarello scuro e da lì iniziare ad effettuare l'affilatura. Mi ritengo soddisfatto dell'acquisto. Ne ho acquistato anche un altro sempre qui su Amazon, per una catena con dente da 4,8mm, ma di una marca meno conosciuta e devo dire che ambedue hanno soddisfatto le mie esigenze anche se quest'ultimo più con sezione maggiore la uso meno. LO CONSIGLIO

Comme sur la photo et le descriptif. Fait le taf, j'économise sur mes affutages. Parfait outil.

Product arrived and one of the files is broken apart from that th Product seems fine